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Retaining Wall Block Calculator

This retaining wall block calculator gives the blocks and caps a wall needs, plus the base stone and drainage gravel behind it, the two orders that make up the job.

Blocks and Caps

Above grade. The buried base course is added on top of this.

One course below grade is the usual minimum, more on taller walls.

How to use the Retaining Wall Block Calculator

Enter the length and the exposed height, what you will see above grade. The buried courses are added separately, because a retaining wall always starts below grade and forgetting that is a course short on every wall.

Then do the Base tab. The trench under the wall and the clean stone behind it are usually more material than the blocks, and they are what stops the wall from moving.

Anything over about 4 feet, or holding a slope, a driveway or a structure, needs an engineer. This tool counts material; it does not design a wall.

Retaining Wall Cost covers blocks, caps and base stone in one figure. The buried course is counted in with the rest, which is why the block total usually comes to one course more than the wall you can see.

Retaining Wall Block formula

  • courses = ceiling(total height ÷ block height)
  • blocks per course = ceiling(wall length ÷ block face width)
  • blocks = courses × blocks per course
  • caps = blocks per course
  • base stone = length × trench width × base depth
  • drainage stone = length × drain width × wall height
Face sizeFace areaBlocks per sq ftCourses per foot of height
12 × 4 in0.33 sq ft3.003.0
12 × 8 in0.67 sq ft1.501.5
16 × 6 in0.67 sq ft1.502.0
18 × 8 in1.00 sq ft1.001.5

Blocks are counted by face area, not by volume, because only the face shows and the depth is fixed by the product.

Worked example

A 30 ft wall, 3 ft exposed, 12 × 4 in blocks, one buried course, capped, 5% waste:

  • Exposed courses: 3 ft ÷ 4 in = 9 courses
  • Plus 1 buried = 10 courses, so total height is 3 ft 4 in
  • Blocks per course: 30 ft ÷ 12 in = 30
  • Blocks: 10 × 30 = 300, plus 5% = 315
  • Caps: 30

And the stone: a 24 in trench 6 in deep is 30 ft³, and a 12 in drainage chimney 3 ft 4 in tall is 100 ft³. That is 4.8 cubic yards against 315 blocks, about 6.5 tons of stone to deliver.

What the result means

The stone is the wall. Blocks stack; the compacted base stops them settling and the drainage chimney stops water pressure pushing them over. A wall that fails almost always failed on drainage, not on blocks.

Bury the first course. One course below grade for a low wall, and roughly one course for every eight above that on taller ones. It is what keeps the toe from kicking out.

Setback eats depth at the top. Most segmental blocks step back about an inch per course, so a ten-course wall leans back the better part of a foot. That is by design, it puts the wall into the slope, but it changes where the top of the wall actually lands.

Common mistakes

  • Not burying the base course. The single most common cause of a wall that leans forward within a few seasons.
  • Backfilling with the soil you dug out. Clay behind a wall holds water and pushes. Use clean angular stone for the first foot behind the blocks.
  • Skipping the drain pipe. The stone chimney needs somewhere to drain to, or it just becomes a taller reservoir.
  • Building over four feet without an engineer. Most jurisdictions require design and a permit above that, and geogrid reinforcement beyond it.
  • Counting blocks and forgetting caps. Caps are a separate unit, usually a different price, and there is one course of them.

Frequently asked questions

How many retaining wall blocks do I need?
How deep should the base course be buried?
How much gravel do I need behind a retaining wall?
How thick should the base under a retaining wall be?
How high can I build a retaining wall without an engineer?
Do I need caps on a retaining wall?

Sources and assumptions